By Nitya Wanchoo

Along the downtown road of Manhasset, a walker will find four Italian restaurants, each with stellar reviews. The pizzerias, which hale from Plandome Heights to Northern Boulevard, are Randazzo’s, Gino’s, Umberto’s and Villa Milano’s.

My friend and I, Manhattan Secondary School students, decided to try them all out in that order one afternoon for lunch.

The two of us would split a slice at each eatery, making for a grand total of two slices of pizza for each of us. As we made our way down Plandome Road in the scorching heat armed with nothing but lemonade and a little cash, we compared and contrasted the four parts of our filling lunch.

Our first stop was Randazzo’s, which we both admitted we had never visited before. The interior was small and sparsely occupied, with a few small wooden tables in the back for those who wished to stay.  So we did to get the full experience. We were helped immediately by a polite man who served us a slice, cut into two, on a red tray.

The pizza was more or less what we expected it to be – average. It was the type of pizza that would be served after a soccer game or trampoline birthday party. There was a good ratio of sauce to cheese and it wasn’t too oily. With that said, it was definitely on the saltier side and the crust was more puffy than most. The only objective downside to Randazzo’s pizza was its price; it was the most expensive, with a slice costing $3.85.

Next, we made our way down to Gino’s, which in recent years has relocated from the corner intersection of Gaynor Avenue and Plandome Road to its current location at 451 Plandome Road. Gino’s has more of a restaurant feel, with fine dining options as well as stools by the windows for people who don’t plan to stay for long. The service was the most friendly here, hands down. The cashier cracked a joke when we paid and other staff members were charmingly interacting with the masses of seated customers.

They gave us an extra plate and we seated ourselves by the window. The first bite was solid and fresh, it had a tasty crust and was lighter in color than Randazzo’s. The sauce was tasty, too. However, it was the oiliest pizza, with oil dripping from the excess cheese onto the paper plates. It cost a fair flat fee of $3 a slice but was well worth the price.

After Gino’s, we made the hearty hundred-feet-long trek to Umberto’s. Umberto’s, much like Gino’s, also has a restaurant ambiance and fine dining options. We placed our orders, paid the $3.25 price for a slice, and sat down at a booth and waited. It came out quickly and was split into two perfectly divided slices, as requested. The pizza had a lightly charred, medium-thickness crust, though it wasn’t too hot. The cheese on the top had broiled over and tasted delicious. Our favorite part about the pizza was its sauce, which had clear, flavorful herbs in it and really added to the overall taste.

And last, but far from least, was Villa Milano’s. This is the spot for the high school audience, especially since it’s the closest to the Manhasset Secondary School and sold there every Thursday. The front is casual, and the back has tables set up for people who want service. A slice of pizza there is only $2.50, but it’s wise to remember that they only take cash at the front. The pizza was fresh, hot, and had a perfect ratio of sauce to cheese with a tasty crust. The pizza was neither too oily nor too salty. In fact, the sauce erred on the sweeter side, which blended really well with the flavors of the cheese.

The four pizzerias offered different ambiances, prices, and slices. For someone looking to grab a quick, cheap slice, Villa’s is definitely the move, while Randazzo’s delivers a reliable average slice. For those more interested in sitting down for a nice meal, they might be better suited to Umberto’s or Gino’s. Nonetheless, there’s lots of Italian cuisine to be tried out on Plandome Road, and it’s fun to give them all a try and judge the favorites for yourself.